Angkor

There are really no words to describe the wonder of Angkor. We spent three days exploring the ruins of the Khmer Empire, built between the 9th and 13th centuries, the most famous of which is Angkor Wat. When the Khmer Empire collapsed its cities were abandoned. Some of its temples remained in use until 100-200 years ago, but many of the sites were neglected completely. European archeologists began restoration of the sites in the 19th century. Although many of the structures are in ruins, some of the carvings are in incredibly good condition.

Out of the 15 odd temples we visited over the three days, I think we spent the most time studying the bas-reliefs on the inner galleries of Angkor Wat and exploring the temple of Ta Phrom. Ta Phrom has been completely taken over by the jungle. Immense trees grow right out of the stone walls while their muscular roots twist through every crack and crevice. The jungle is simultaneously destroying and supporting the ruins. We found it impossible to comprehend how such marvels could be neglected and forgotten for so many centuries. Their beauty is striking as is the thought of how many human and material resources went into to building them.

Although it rained for the entire first day and part of the second, we managed to catch one magnificent sunrise over Angkor Wat. The rain was a bit of a downer but it also meant that we were battling fewer tourists along the way.

Cambodia is a country of marked contradictions. Siem Reap, the city closest to Angkor and used as a base by tourists who come to visit the ruins is jarring against the backdrop of this ancient marvel. Every hotel and restaurant has appropriated the names of Angkor and other major temples and sites. Their signs are garish and overwhelming, lit up in neon with their staff bombarding you for your business at every turn. It felt almost filthy. But, then, who am I to judge a people whose country has been broken so many times and who have no choice but to focus on surviving from day to day. They do what they need to do and the signs of (slow) development are everywhere. Construction is rampant and the people are incredibly enterprising.

Signs for the People’s Party of Cambodia lining the streets are ubiquitous. Once in a while we saw the sign of one of the opposition parties but these were few and far between. Our guide explained that most people do not support the People’s Party and do not give permission for the party’s signs to be mounted in front of their houses and businesses. Nevertheless, it keeps winning elections as a result of its support from the Vietnamese.

Our bus ride from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh was actually hilarious. They played what we determined were sing-a-long TV shows, karaoke style. There was also some bizarre Cambodian sketch comedy which the lady behind us seemed to be enjoying immensely. The driver honked the horn for the entire five hour journey – we’re not sure what at. That’s what we get for taking the $6 bus rather than the $9 one. It’s a good thing we didn’t go for the $3.50 option.

(Apologies, internet connections are slow here so no pictures for now)